Mona Jacket by Wear Lemonade

               I think that Spring is finally here! Last week, the temperature was between 15-22’C! It was a lot sunnier and also it didn’t got dark early in the afternoon. How I love these sunny days! I have already started planning my Spring – Summer makes! Can’t wait to make them! I think I have more sewing plans that actual sewing time! Ha ha!
Memade outfit: Mona jacket by Wear Lemonade, Aldaia dress by Pauline Alice. Shoes are “Marina” in nature from Swedish Hasbeens.
              My first spring make is done! I made the Mona jacket by Wear Lemonade! Another #2017makenine project! I had an eye on this jacket for at least six to eight months! I bought the 3month subscription from Wear Lemonade last month. It is something like the “Netflix de la couture”! I really enjoy the idea of this because for a little amount of money you have access to the entire pdf collection! How awesome is that!?
            A thing I would like to mention is that before buying the 3month subscription, I send an email to Wear Lemonade to clear out some things. I was wondering if with my subscription I had access to all of their patterns and secondly, I was curious about the instuctions’ language. Happily they informed me that once I had subscribed I would have access to the entire Wear Lemonade patterns until my subscription expires and secondly that there are both French and English instruction in their patterns! Yay!
          Unfortunately, the oldest patterns haven’t been translated yet. So the instructions for the Mona jacket were in French. But no! This didn’t stop me from making the jacket! Lisa from Wear Lemonade has made sew along videos for ALL of their patterns on her You Tube channel which is called “make my lemonade”. Those videos are in French too but they are clear enough to understand what she is doing! I love these videos! I might have watched all of them! They are so inspiring and joyful!
I lined the entire jacket.
              As far as the Mona Jacket is concerned, is an unlined biker jacket, crop length with two bust darts, metallic zipper and four pressures. It has long sleeves which can be modified to 3/4 sleeves or sleeveless. The difficulty of the patterns is “intermediate” according to the company.
REQUIREMENTS
            The great thing about the pattern is that it needs a little amount of fabric. Only 1,35 meters with a tiny bit of a stretch. I used wool gabardine which I bought from tsagrinos for 6 euros per meter in (don’t be suprised! Haha!) dusty pink; but more of rose colour. Such a beautiful colour! It is actually more beautiful in person than was on the site where I first saw it and fell in love with it!
Source
            The lining that I chose is a light weight viscose from ifasma. eu. I couldn’t decide which colour I would like for the lining. Deep inside I knew that I wanted a iced grey colour which I ended up buying! It was difficult to find a matching zipper for my jacket.. so I bought a brown zipper with silver teeth. It was from a haberdashery in Athens. (I finally managed to find time to go downtown! I found sooo many great fabrics and I bought a few! Woop- woop!). I know that it sounds a bit awful (dusty pink – grey lining & brown zipper) but trust me; they look nice together. The pressures were from raftadiko.gr for 7,50 euros per pack in silver colour.
CONSTRUCTION
           I made size 40. As I mentioned before, I decided to line the jacket. I thought that the gabardine wool fabric couldn’t stand alone. The lining along with the main fabric provides warmth, cosiness and it also is easier to put the jacket on because it slides.
             First, I sew the entire jacket and put the zipper on. I stopped before attaching the facing. In order to make the lining, I used these pattern pieces: yoke, back, two front pieces (left and right) and the sleeves. I put these together. Attention here! The lining should mirror the inside of the jacket! That way, at the end the bust darts of the main jacket (the shell) and the lining should face each other and should be closed inside the jacket. I hope that these make sense guys. Unfortunately, I didn’t take any pictures of this process because I was focused to finish it.
The lining attached to the sides and collar (excuse the mess!).
            Next I sew the lining onto the jacket. I sew the right side of the jacket with the right side of the lining (WRONG sides facing each other). On the left side of the jacket, I put the RIGHT side facing the left front panel’s WRONG side and I sew them together. I did that because the right side of the jacket it is going to be hidden under the facing while the left side of it will not. I just aimed to make it look neater from the inside! Again guys, I really hope that all these make sense!  Finally, I sew the facing onto the jacket. I didn’t have any bias tape so I finished the facing with a zic – zac stitch. The layers from the outside to inside goes like: outer jacket, lining and facing.
Left side of the jacket. Here, I have sewn the lining fron the inside (wrong side of the jacket to right side of the lining).
Right side of the jacket. Here, I attached the lining to the jacket wrong sides together.
             A really challenging part is attaching the sleeve to the lining, especially if this is the first time you are doing this! For this step, check “Maria Veste” sew along video by Make My Lemonade; it explains the process clearly. I did the same thing Lisa does in this video. It was really funny the first time I tried to attach the sleeves onto the lining on my Lola Coat by SOI by my own without any gaudiness. It was really difficult to figure out what I was doing!
At the bottom of the lining I made a pleat on both sides in order to give ease.
             While I was checking the fitting I realised/ decided that the bust darts where really high! The thing is  is that I checked the fitting several times before but I didn’t noticed the darts’ issue. Well, I measured how much I had to move them (distance between dart point to my nipple) and I started the surgery on the jacket! I unpicked the side seams (where those darts were) , the darts and finally the pocket. I had to move them about 3,5cm downwards and the dart point about 4cm downwards. The fabric wasn’t that much but I managed to make the alteration I needed. Woop- woop! The final touch obviously are those pressures! They make the jacket look bad-ass! Haha!
When I was about to finish my jacket and I realised that the bust darts were reeeaaally high!

  
After I moved the darts. Those darts need better pressing! Oops!

FINAL THOUGHTS
             I enjoyed making the Mona jacket. I didn’t enjoyed moving those darts! I think I should write a “what to do list before tracing my patterns” and stick in front of me in order to see it! I will definitely take measures from the pattern in the future in order to avoid that kind of mistakes! The fault was totally mine about the dart issue.
The jacket closed.
           I love my new jacket! It is so girly and yet rock and stylish! I consider to end stitch the collar and the front panels but I haven’t decided yet. Most similar style jackets that I have seen, those parts ahave been end stitched. I might, I might not. We will see. Also, I would like to mention that if my fabric was thinner I would probably interfaced the collar and the front panels. Of course, those pressures are decorative and not functional but I think it would look better once it has been interfaced.
          I will love to make another one in the future (why not?) but I’m good for now. There are sooo many amazing patterns to make from my “Netflix de la couture” subscription (which I think it is a total value for money!)  that I have to start my next project soon! Totally recommend this pattern to you guys! It requires so little fabric which is always a plus!
Back view.
SUMMARY
Sewing pattern: Mona jacket by Wear Lemonade
Size: 40
Fabric: Wool gabardine (6euros/meter) from Tsagrinos & lightweight viscose lining (4euros/meter) from ifasm. eu
Notions: Pressures (7.50euros per pack) from raftadiko and metallic zipper for jackets (2euros)
Alterations:I moved the bust darts 3,5cm & dart point 4cm downwards.  Also, I lined the entire jacket.
Total Cost:~18.5euros (cost of the pdf patten: I bought the 3month subscription which cost me 27euros but with this I have access to 27 patterns! Yep! Which means that the cost of the Mona pattern was 1euro! Good deal!)
Make another one?  I would love to but not for now. One “rock” jacket is enough for my wardrobe for now!
 
Until next time,
Happy sewing!!

 

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